13 Nov A Trip to the Elephant Nature Park
We learned a lot about the plight of Thailand’s elephants and got up close to these amazing creatures during a trip to the Elephant Nature Park – here’s the story of our day there.
The Plight of Thailand’s Elephants
There’s a huge contradiction in the attitude towards elephants in Thailand; on one hand they’re revered as sacred animals that helped build the country and win wars but on the other, they’re beaten and abused in the worst ways. Historically, wild elephants were domesticated in Thailand for logging work, however, after this was banned in 1989 they became surplus to requirements and many were either abandoned in forests, sold over the border to Burma where logging is still legal or used instead to make money from tourists.
Although two thirds of their natural habitat was destroyed by the logging industry, there’s still a small wild elephant population in Northern Thailand. While these creatures are classed as endangered and are protected by law, domesticated elephants are only awarded the same protection as cattle. That means owners are free to use and abuse elephants without repercussion; they can beat, maim, overwork or abandon them at will. Domesticated elephants are usually made to work in camps giving tourist rides and are also taken into cities to beg for money from tourists; the bright lights and vibrations in the ground causing them major distress.
The most disturbing aspect of all this is the process used to domesticate elephants in Thailand and many other Asian countries. The practice, referred to as Phajann, involves literally breaking an elephant’s spirit so they are submissive enough to be used for work or tourism. Young elephants are forced into a tiny ‘crushing pen’ and tortured into submission; men beat, starve and deprive the animal of sleep for days on end using nails, sticks and rocks to inflict as much pain as possible. Many mahoots (elephant trainers) believe that this practice is necessary to ensure the elephants will work effectively for humans. We were shown a documentary about this disgusting practice during our trip to the Elephant Nature Park – it’s barbaric.
Saving the Gentle Giants of the Forest
When Andrew and I first visited Thailand in 2009 we had no idea about any of this; during a trekking tour we were taken to an elephant camp and I’m ashamed to say that we did ride one. This is something I bitterly regret and would never repeat; participating in this kind of tourism only perpetuates the cycle of abuse in my opinion. I do realise that this issue isn’t as clear cut as I’ve made out. If every single tourist suddenly refused to pay to see elephants in Thailand, what would happen? Would the elephants be killed or abandoned because they didn’t generate income for their owners anymore?
There’s no simple solution to Thailand’s elephant problem. From what I can see the government needs to introduce and enforce some animal welfare laws (which they seem to be debating at the moment) to protect these animals from abuse as a first step but that’s easier said than done. In the meantime, we knew our friends and family would want to see elephants when they visited us in Thailand and we didn’t want them to fall into the same trap we had in 2009, so we encouraged them to visit the Elephant Nature Park instead.
The Elephant Nature Park is set in a natural valley about an hour away from Chiang Mai, surrounded by mountains and forests. The Park was established in the 90s by Lek, a Thai woman who has dedicated her life to saving elephants. Lek rescues as many abused elephants as she can and brings them to her sanctuary, where they are given medical treatment and left to roam freely around the grounds.
Given that each elephant eats around 100kg of food a day and the park currently holds 36 elephants, it costs a staggering amount to run – around $1.4 million a year. The Park relies on donations to survive as well as visits from tourists and volunteers; yes, it’s still elephant tourism but it’s about as ethical as it gets – the money is put back into saving and caring for animals and the elephants aren’t forced to work or give the tourists rides. Most importantly, the Elephant Nature Park works on educating visitors and local people about the plight of domesticated elephants – spreading the word about these issues is vital.
Getting up Close to Elephants – Our Day at the Elephant Nature Park
We opted to take a day trip to the park with my mum and dad during their visit to Chiang Mai. Our guide Zaa, told us about the history of the Park and showed us a documentary during the hour-long drive out to the park. Although the park isn’t far from Chaing Mai, it felt like we were well out in the countryside when we finally arrived and took in the little oasis; green fields surrounded by forests and mountains, a wide river flowing beneath the blue sky. Here are our video highlights from the Elephant Nature Park Thailand:
We got our first taste of elephants at the viewing platform almost straight away as herds ambled over for feeding; as we held out pieces of fruit and vegetables the animals approached, swiping the food gently from our hands with muscular, tentacle-like trunks. It was incredible to have such close contact with the animals; they were so large yet so gentle and trusting, despite the horrific treatment many of them had experienced from humans in the past. There was just one elephant we were warned to stay away from, an aggressive male adolescent aptly referred to as ‘Naughty Boy’; he often bullied the older female elephants and could be unpredictable with people.
Zaa took us on a walk around the park, introducing us to some of the elephants and their mahoots. We heard some heart-breaking stories of what the animals had gone through; one was blinded with a slingshot by her owner after she refused to work when her baby died, another had a stepped on a landmine in Burma while another was chained up for mating; the male elephant broke her hip when he forcibly mounted her.
After lunch we got a chance to wash the elephants in the river and get a closer look at a gorgeous baby elephant born at the park before watching a documentary about the plight of Thailand’s elephants. There was time for one last feeding before we headed back, exhausted, to Chiang Mai. I learned so much during our trip to the Elephant Nature Park and would urge anyone who wants to get up close to these incredible creatures to do so by visiting the park or signing up as a volunteer – you won’t regret it.
The Elephant Nature Park also runs a dog rescue scheme; Andrew and I spent a week volunteering for the dog project, more about that in our next post.
*Our day trip to the Elephant Nature Park cost £50 per person; longer trips and volunteering opportunities cost between £116 and £300, to get more information and book visit the Elephant Nature Park’s official website. You can find out more about the issues mentioned above from the Save Elephant Foundation.
CarmelPosted at 13:07h, 14 November
I really wanted to do this while we’re in Chiang Mai, but Shawn wasn’t on board. Since I’m already taking 6,700 baht of cooking classes, I figured I’d let him win on this one. But I’m glad the popularity of this particular elephant park is spreading and hopefully the momentum and trend toward more of these kinds of parks will continue. Guess I’ll wait until next time to wash the elephants!
AmyPosted at 13:58h, 14 November
Hi Carmel, that is a lot of money in cooking classes 🙂 if you go back to Thailand though I’d definitely recommend persuading Shawn to go to the Elephant Nature Park, it’s great.
JessicaPosted at 13:09h, 14 November
Can’t believe people treat animals – especially elephants – that way. Thank you for your post, it helps us prepare for our own week of volunteering at the Elephant Nature Park! We’ll be there in January, can’t wait. Very curious about the dog project as well. Love your writing! Cheers, Jessica
AmyPosted at 14:00h, 14 November
Hi Jessica, we were appalled to find out about the shocking treatment of elephants in Asia too. Glad to hear you’ll be volunteering at ENP; looking forward to hearing about your experience – make sure to check out the dogs while you’re there too!
Heidi (@WagonersAbroad)Posted at 14:54h, 14 November
Wow, so sad and incredible all at once. When we make it over to SEA, we hope to see elephants. I do like the idea of being up close and washing them. I think that would be a great experience for the kids. Thanks for sharing and opening our eyes to what goes on.
AndrewPosted at 15:02h, 14 November
It is really sad how some people treat animals, some people have no shame. These animals are incredible and so gentle too. There were many children there too, it was a great way to learn more about the animals.
ManfredPosted at 14:58h, 14 November
I think a large part of the problem is that so many tourist want to see them, and that helps perpetuate the whole thing. The more we can do to educate people, the better.
AndrewPosted at 15:05h, 14 November
Thanks Manfred, you’re right, it seems to be one thing to tick off the list when visiting SEA; ‘ride an elephant’, so long as people are made more aware then more action can be taken. Until then I guess we just keep spreading the word.
KerriPosted at 20:36h, 14 November
Great post. I had no clue. We had actually thought about going on elephant safari when we went to Thailand. But thank you for sharing this. It has changed my view. I love your video and looks like an amazing experience!
AmyPosted at 07:12h, 15 November
Hi Kerri, I’m glad this information was useful for you; I only wish we’d heard about the park when we first visited Thailand in 2009. I would definitely recommend visiting if you return to Thailand in the future.
BeastPosted at 00:07h, 15 November
Beautifully written as usual Amy. It brought a tear to my eye but also reminded me of the wonderful and thought provoking day we spent with you at the Elephant nature park. I hope this article encourages people to go there and experience these amazing animals with respect instead of opting for the dubious thrill of riding them. X
AmyPosted at 07:10h, 15 November
Thanks Beast, I’m glad you found the visit rewarding, we certainly did too. I also hope this article does help to spread the word and encourage people to visit the Elephant Nature Park.
EmielPosted at 20:50h, 15 November
Really great story! So many people (like we two years ago) were desperately looking to find reliable elephant camps because indeed, we all want to go and see the elephants in Thailand. If I ever get another question about elephant camps in the future, I am sure to direct them to this post.
AmyPosted at 13:30h, 16 November
Glad you found the post useful Emiel – the more people who visit ENP the better!
PattiPosted at 04:54h, 16 November
We recently watched an excellent documentary about elephants on t.v. – they are incredible! What a special day you spent with them and really fun video. Pretty crazy that you put your hand in his/her mouth!
AmyPosted at 13:32h, 16 November
Yes, they are incredible Patti, so gentle and intelligent. It does seem a bit crazy to put your hand in the elephant’s mouth actually – I was instructed to give the banana to the elephant that way by the mahout though so I assume it was safe!
Erin Bender (Travel With Bender)Posted at 19:13h, 16 November
There is just something about Elephants that gets me. They are so beautiful and I love hearing about these places that are treating them with love and respect. We have ridden our share of elephants indeed playing the blind tourist oblivious to the animal’s situation.. Education like this is imperative for changing tourist mindset.
AmyPosted at 04:13h, 17 November
Education really is the key to protecting these amazing animals Erin; pass the message on!
Val-This Way To ParadisePosted at 21:20h, 18 November
My heart was captured by elephants when I got to see them in the wild in Sri Lanka. If only more people saw them as the sacred beings that they are. Thanks for being part of giving more education to tourists.
AmyPosted at 10:48h, 19 November
Wow, you were lucky to see wild elephants Val, what an amazing experience.
Laurel- Capturing la VitaPosted at 18:41h, 19 November
What an amazing experience. It is so wonderful to see so many people doing what needs to be done to save these beautiful animals. Thank you for playing your part and spreading the word!
AndrewPosted at 10:40h, 20 November
Thanks Laurel, it was such a great experience. 🙂
HelenPosted at 09:02h, 04 June
I stumbled across your blog and having been reading it with interest as we are due to embark on our own travel adventure in 9 weeks. You have made me consider lots of things that hadn’t occurred to me to check yet! Love this post and it has inspired me to go here and volunteer at the Elephant Nature Park when we reach Chang Mai.
AmyPosted at 16:49h, 04 June
Hi Helen, you must be so excited, I remember how intense the build-up to our trip was. I’m so glad we’ve inspired you to go and volunteer at the Elephant Nature Park, I hope you have a great time – don’t forget to go and see the dog project there too 🙂
SuePosted at 12:31h, 15 June
I was searching for hands on experiences of ENP volunteers and found your blog. What a wonderful experience you had and I cannot wait for my volunteering trip from 6 October…. Reading your blog just makes my trip all the more real. Excited? You betcha… just in awe of being in the presence of such beautiful creatures. Thank you for sharing.
AmyPosted at 20:15h, 15 June
Hi Sue, thanks for reading! We love the ENP and volunteering there was one of our favourite travel experiences; it is amazing being surrounded by the elephants, dogs and beautiful scenery. You will have a great time I’m sure! Have fun!